3 September 2025 (hazy and hot, late thunderstorm) 47km

It was 6am this morning when my wife told me it was time to get moving. Yes, it was I who slept longer this morning. (yes, and it was I who let him sleep until 6am instead of prodding him awake at 5am as he usually does for me!).

After the party of Muslim visitors had retired to bed last night, I enjoyed a restful sleep, so we were packed in no time and on the road by 6.30am. 

Began our adventure on a quiet road. The scenery was small holdings with crops and a few animals, set in a valley with mountains lining the rim.

On one corner we suddenly came upon a huge expanse of concrete which was really wide and a good length. We think it was an old airport, or military runway.

Not far along as we rounded a bend, was a prison. Huge walls with barbed wire. Thankfully, out in the middle of nowhere. There were a lot of cars, so it may have been visiting day. 

Interesting to note the amount of old people we see in the country. Up early and into it. It seems all the young people have gone to the city. I guess they'd have to, just to find a spouse.

We have been amazed on this trip all over Europe, but especially in the Balkans, the amount of smokers. And because so many of the eateries are outdoors, you get a side of second hand smoke whether you ordered it or not.

It's a culture here that will never die out, as even their youngsters are smoking or vaping. But, as non smokers it's very hard to go for a meal and have virtually everyone but us puffing away. 

We missed a turnoff and ended up on a crap road full of potholes and bumps. Eventually, saw a farmer who pointed to the road we needed to take.

As you can see by the photo, we were well off track. 

Soon we found ourselves on main road for the first time today. Tension increased immediately as traffic volume and sheer stupidity had concentration levels soaring.

Took this into the town of Lehke. Dismounted here and pushed our bikes up the main street, looking to buy breakfast. Had to visit one shop for some cold water, (no bread, no fruit, no yoghurt), another shop for yoghurt and a different shop for bananas. We never did find bread.

As we walked, we watched cars from both directions trying to fit through space only big enough for one.

Plenty of honking of horns and shouting, which is definitely a Balkan trait. 

Cycled out of town to a piece of wasteland with a couple of benches, where we sat close to a bridge, some sort of office practice and watched as a very talented stone Mason continued his excellent work on a house. 

Plenty of figs ripe for the picking today.

Out of town heading south on a different road, which was nothing like our first.

Speed bumps everywhere although it doesn't seem to stop the speedsters, and are a literal pain in the arse for us. It was very hard to get any sort of rhythm going when you have to slow down for these speed bumps all the time and then wind up the pedals again.

We were faced with a decision. Carry on with the pain in the arse road or deviate 10km to the nearest campground on the shores of the Med. 

It was now stinking hot and with memories of how lovely the sea was in Croatia, we both agreed to head for the beach.

It was a very straight road going across country toward the sea. Could have been a nice ride except we had cars going to a wedding. It appeared maybe some were running late as these guys were hoofing it past us.

At one point an old guy on a bike had three cars behind him which had slowed, as he wasn't stable.

A guy in an Audi comes flying up behind all three, just as one pulls out behind the old guy. The Audi swerved to avoid him and it took him all he had to keep the car on the road.

From where we were, it looked like he wasn't going to control it and was going over, but how the hell he kept it upright, we don't know. 

Bought some bread as we hadn't been able to find a bakery in Lehke.

In Albania supermarkets don't sell bread and the out of the way ones are very much like the shops in Greece forty years ago, selling a "whole lotta nothing" 

Eventually, we came to a beachside town. Well, what should have been.

New footpath and streetlights stretching right along with the others branched off, heading down to the sea.

Huge money spent here. Brand new apartments, complete, with only the odd one occupied. The place was deserted, a literal Ghost Town.

Took one of the roads to the beach. Immaculate surface, but not a car in sight. 

Reached the beach to find the road just stopped. No beach frontage or prom, just dirt and sand. It did not look inviting at all. So despite the heat, we didn't go in for a swim.

Rode to the far end looking for the campsite. 

Found a waste piece of ground with some huts and thought "ah No, thank you!"

Decided to try a different camp that we'd seen on the way in but didn't look too appealing judging from the potholed gravel road down to it.

As we approached the Flladi Detit camp the owner saw us approach and asked if we wanted to camp.

Spoke to the owner who told us we could pay Euros 10 and camp under three sun umbrellas in the tent.

We laughed. Then he suggests one of three rooms he has.

We asked how much. 25 euro he says.

Too much for us we reply.

What would we pay?, he asks

I said we could only pay Euro 10.

Euro $15 he says.

Shows us another room to try to entice us. This was upstairs, shower, toilet, kitchen and fridge downstairs.

Done for Euro 15, our second cheapest "camp".

Turns out the owner was named Peter and his wife Skeifa.

She made the beds up for us and for the last couple of hours we've been blogging, eating and sleeping and showering.

The weather outside turned and we had thunder and lightning, but we were dry and could watch it, without being in it. 

Julia, being a sensible woman, had a shower as soon as we moved into the room. I, however, feeling tired, decided to snooze and then to continue with the blog.

After our thunder and lightning storm, we now have no water, no wifi, no electricity.

Euro 15 was too much to pay me thinks? 

When we arrived and I unpacked my bike, I put my seat cover on and placed it under the garage with a mesh roof.

Julia however, didn't realise the roof was mesh and left some of her gear on her bike, which got soaked. 

I am still lying on the bed waiting to get a shower, hot and sticky and probably out of luck.

Julia, on the other hand has used the simple doorstop (a container of water), to wash her dirty, soaked items and is not hot or sticky. 

Sometimes I ask myself

"Is life fair?" 

We got a bit excited seeing our first wave for three months.

At 5pm we decided to go and see what the restaurant next door and the one on the pier, had to offer.

Downstairs, Skeifa told us that the electricity and shower etc were working again now.

Checked out both restaurants, pretty much the same, then walked into town to buy bottled water, yoghurt, bananas and milk for a coffee later. 

Back at the apartment, I showered and we prepared to go out for dinner. Was going to go next door as we'd checked it out earlier.

Saw Tina, an American friend of the owners and she suggested we go to Icons down the beach.

Only problem was the beach was full of potholes, which were full of water from the thunderstorm.

We thought, we'd let her get out of sight and then go next door, but she followed us down the path...so off down the beach we go.

Wasn't too bad in daylight, even though the sun was setting and had a lovely meal at Icons, even though it was outdoors and we were being ravaged by mosquitos. 

The walk home was a little different, by the very dim lights on our phones and our shoes were covered with the mud/sand by the time we got back. 

Simple lesson:

If someone suggests something and you don't like the idea....don't do it.

Life's too short at our age to be trying to please everybody.....or anybody. 

Cup of coffee and bedtime.