19 September 2025 (sunny and hot 28C) 39km

Considering we had no air conditioning, I didn't sleep too badly. Just as well the temperature overnight wasn't too hot. Ju was awake for a few hours, just couldn't sleep.

It was 7.30am when I got up and finished off yesterday's blog, before we walked along the front looking for some breakfast. The bakery didn't have bread until 8.30am....rather late for bread I would have thought. Picked up what else we needed from the supermarket and back for brekky. 

The pool looked very inviting as we were leaving.

Pack up by 9.45 am and on our way to Paleokastritsa, with the knowledge that we'd be climbing all day again, but also a relatively short day, so we felt relaxed.

Rode out through the main street of Sidari, full of cafes/bars/restaurants doing the "Full English." And hardly surprising, the main tourists we've encountered since arriving on Corfu, have been English. 

Sidari Beach

We had a nice few flat relaxed kilometres to start, but then the climbing began, short and sharp, making sure we don't forget what the last three and a half months has been about.

Took a side trip through Peroulades which was fine but then a 20% climb....which wasn't so fine. 

Decided we needed to cool off, so a quick side trip to Sunset Beach. Pulled into a gravel car park, looked down at the water which was not the iridescent turquoise we'd been hoping for and didn't look worth the effort to walk down and investigate further. So we didn't.

So next detour was Agios Stefano's, which was a big beach with a few waves supposedly. We were excited at the prospect of a possible bodysurf.

After a few false starts following signs that read "To the Beach", but which actually just led you to a bar or restaurant, we found a stony carpark with no one in it and leaned the bikes against a wall. We could see a few waves and because it was such a a big beach, we could even see some sand. There were still plenty of loungers though.

Took the togs onto the beach but all the changing booths were charging, as they were with showers, loungers and umbrellas. It wasn't even that great a beach.  We could see there was a sand bar ruining what small swell there was, so that coupled with the charging for everything pissed us off so much, we flagged the swim and headed back to the bikes.

So much for beautiful bays and beaches where you can swim in the pristine, clear turquoise waters. You can hardly see sand for the bloody accessories that supposedly go with it. With so many people, even at this time of year, the water is clouded. 

The pool at this resort was more impressive than the beach to be honest.

Out of town, both a little pissed off, straight into more climbing. This just continued. Have to say though, the driving quality, wasn't too bad, certainly not like Albania. 

After yet another climb we finally felt rewarded with some lovely views approaching the village of Dafni. It also offered good roads  and was reasonably flat, once we were in that stratosphere, but only cos we'd sweated our asses off getting up there.

In the tiny village of Agros in the hills, we needed some food and a break but the only shade we could find was on a stone wall, at an intersection with a sharp right turn. On a couple of occasions, the right turning traffic nearly collected my left foot. 

We were both over hills by now, but they continued up to Troumpetas where, finally after 700 metres, we began our descent into Paleo via Doukades on a nice quieter road. 

Found a Market Plus, bought two ice creams and then downhill for another 1.6 kms to the campground.

The lady owner has been there since 198 and she was lovely. Told us the best wifi spot in the camp, where we could charge our phones and about the pool we can use for nothing down the road. Supermarket, right across the road. Bus goes to Paleo and timetable. 

Then she pointed at where we could pitch our tent.  "Do you see the pink building up there?", she asks, pointing up the long, steep driveway that meets the blue of the sky about 300 metres away. 

We squint and we can just make it out.

"Well, you must go past there as these plots near the front are for people with engines. For all you cyclists and backpackers, you must walk (or cycle), up through the olive grove as far as you can go, and somewhere around Norway, you will see where you can pitch your tent. 

"Where are the toilets and showers?"

"Just in here behind reception, but there are some others in the pink building."

So we trudged up the hill for a few hours, (maybe not, but it felt like it!), put up the tent and then got changed at the pink building and straight down the road about 100 metres for a well earned dip.

The pool area was packed and virtually everyone was a Brit. Northern and Southern accents all chatting and using the loungers.

Ju and I went straight in and after the ride we'd had, it was just the job. Lazed on the grass until a group moved off, then we grabbed two loungers. 

Another couple were getting their gear together off the loungers next to us, so I asked about eating places and because they've been coming here for years, they gave us all the info and price ranges.

On the way back we called into the supermarket and Ju suggested I buy a 6 euro blow up lilo as a mattress.

The guy in the shop even blew it up with a compressor.

So....maybe a decent sleep??? 

Later we walked down the road about 200 metres to Cactus and had a drink and some gyros (pork, salad and chips on pita bread) very nice.

But because Julia can't eat the bread she had the insides of two gyros while I had one full gyros with two extra pita breads. 

On the way back to the campground, we bought breakfast, (as there's also a fridge at this campground), and then sat and blogged, with Julia working on the 17th. 

Good night, sleep tight

Hope those bloody mozzies don't bite.