3 August 2025 (sun and clouds, late rain) 68km

During the night the thunder rolled in and we were both pleased we hadn't been in the tent.  Looking outside this morning, we would have been very lucky to have made it through the night in Nessie.  Lots of water sitting on the ground.  If we'd been out there we may well have been swimming. 

Today we are aiming for 65kms with 900 metres of climbing, so hopefully a good gradient generally.  Just after 8.30am we popped along for breakfast, thinking just cold cuts of meat, maybe a croissant.Nope...cereal, cut fruit, dried fruit, stewed fruit, yoghurt, scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, croissants, the lot.

It was excellent, as was our stay here. We are so glad that campground had gone. It was the perfect night to be holed up in a cozy apartment. Timed it perfectly weather wise.

We enjoyed our stay so much, we even considered staying another night, but as we ate through a leisurely breakfast with two fantastic cappuccinos at no extra charge, the weather looked brighter. Still cloudy but not looking like rain and no wind. That's something we've noticed in Slovenia is a distinct lack of wind. I guess being surrounded by mountains will do that.

Eventually we tore ourselves away from that delicious breakfast, even the bacon and eggs were cooked to perfection. We went to pay and thank our lovely hosts, Andrea and Stane. A beautiful room and delicious breakfast. What more could you ask? So if you find yourself in the neighborhood of Ljubljana, look for Tavcar Pension, about 6km northeast of the centre.

Goodbye Tavcar

On our way and skirting Ljubljana to the east and came across a detour. Decided to ignore the signs as we couldn't be bothered looking at the map to see if their deviation tied in with our directions. No problem and we were soon back on tarmac and riding on small country roads, seeing a number of road bikers obviously on their Sunday morning circuit.  We were really enjoying this road and didn't want to turn off, but we had to turn east.

As soon as we turned, all traffic dried up, just the sound of the birds, the smells and noises and scenery. We were saying if only the road surface was better, this would be perfect. Came round the corner and Voila!

Today was a great ride.  We'd left at 10.20am in cloudy, but for the moment non threatening weather. It was perfect cycling weather. Not too hot or cold and no rain.  Because the lanes had virtually no traffic, Julia and I could mostly ride side by side, just shooting the breeze about all manner of topics.

You'd think after all these years, we wouldn't have anything to talk about, but we are already casually looking at our next tour.  Suddenly, out of nowhere, a hill to test us. At first we just got into our usual steady state, quite prepared to "go the whole hog."

Sadly, not this hill which went on and on and was a twenty percent gradient. Had to dismount and push and push and push some more. It's the first time we've had a prolonged period of pushing our bikes, but there was no way we could ride it. Even pushing it was a real effort. At least the upper body finally got a bit of a workout!

Up the top of the hill we had great vistas in every direction with Ljubljana still visible in the distance behind us. This was lovely riding now that awful uphill was behind us and reminded us of the Peak district in England. There was absolutely no traffic.

Downhill through Grosuplje and onto more country roads to Veliko Mlacevo where we were confronted with yet another road closed sign. This one looked pretty major, but we looked at each other and knew we weren't turning around. Feel like we need T-shirts with WE DON'T DO DETOURS emblazoned on the front.

This was 5km of pretty rough gravel at times, but still preferable to a lengthy detour. Bonus of course was no traffic.

We also saw four storks in a field (haven't seen any for a week) then a couple of teenage foxes by a cornfield then a fully grown one crossing the road in front of us.

We hit tarseal again at Velika Racna and it was getting on toward lunchtime now. We were ploughing along the valley at a great rate of knots, always keeping one eye on the weather which was once again starting to look a bit ominous.  In Videm we had lunch outside a fire station at their picnic bench as no one was around.

Obligatory church photo

The afternoon clouds were definitely gathering now. Dark purple/grey and full of rain.  Began riding again at a good clip to the village of Kompolje where Julia had made a note to check which road to take as Mapy wanted to send us on what looked to be a very small, perhaps gravel road.  A quick look at the suggested road decided us and we stayed on the road we were on. The riding was great and the traffic minimal, so why change?  The rain seemed close, when the gradient began to increase, so we just kept the "pedal to the metal". 

We were hiking along when suddenly, our beautiful road turns to gravel. Hard packed at least but with potholes and washboard sections to avoid, we still didn't break our rhythm. The road writhed its way uphill steadily as we passed a sign with an image of bears on. But we didn't want to break our stride to take a photo. So on we went, steadily gaining altitude.  I had a great view of a hawk swooping in so close to Julia's helmet she could feel the air from it's wings.

Nearly at the top and some guy in a black car comes hooning around the corner at pace, obviously thinking he's a rally car driver, which I have to admit, this road was perfect for. About 5 minutes later someone went past us downhill more sedately but that was the only traffic we saw in the 10km we spent ploughing along uphill on the gravel.

Had just made it to a plateau at the top of the climb, when I felt a change in the bike's movements. Dreading what I knew, I monitored it for a couple more minutes, until I could leave it no longer. Another puncture. But this time, unlike the previous two, it was the back wheel.  Out in the middle of a bear infested forest, on a gravel track, in the middle of nowhere, just waiting for the rain. 

Oh well, nothing to do but get it changed....and quick.  Found the puncture and a nice sized shard of glass through the tyre. With the aid of Julia and her glasses, we got the glass out, changed the inner tube and rode the descent, hoping like crazy that we wouldn't get another.  Finally after 14kms of gravel, we got the tarseal back. What a relief.

Ju here: sorry, but I feel a song coming on. Sometimes this is all that we have to occupy our brains as we pedal along. It's called “the 4th day, Slovenia”

On the fourth day Slovenia, my true love and I see,

Four storks a-stalking

Three hiding foxes

Two rally drivers

And a hawk flying low over me.

Back to Pete.

Entered Kocevje where our chosen campground was, just as the rain started.  Sheltered first in a business (closed on Sunday) with a table and bench seats.  Then when the rain diminished, we rode further into town and spent fifteen minutes sheltering in the arches of a church, eating crisps and nuts.

Made our final dash for the camp, where we found a receptionist but no one else here.  It was very strange.

Ju here: We pulled up at the Kocevje campground about 5pm and it looked empty and deserted. There was a young woman sitting outside reception with a cigarette and a cup of coffee.

“You have reservation?” she asked in her Transylvanian accent, or maybe it was just the long, straight black hair with short blunt fridge that made me think that.

I tried not to laugh as there was nobody beating down the door to get into this place.   I felt like I had to apologize for disturbing her afternoon tea, but honestly, you would think she'd be glad to have something to do.  No camper vans, cars, nothing.

There were three empty tents arranged in a group, but they looked like they'd been there a few days at least and just abandoned.  We set our tent up and showered and then set about repairing the punctured tyre and thought we'd better repair the other two while we were at it.

After dinner at 6.30pm, a French family, mum, dad and three kids, turn up. They were the owners of the three tents. They've been hiking in the area looking at bear footprints and had found plenty.  They were from Montpellier, but the husband is part Slovenian. Both teachers, so the kids had lessons before dinner. Talk about not get a break from your teachers. We had a coffee, blogged and back to the tent ready for a cold night. The temperature is supposed to drop to 10.