28 August 2025 (sunny and hot 31C) 56km
Awake at 5am, undecided about whether to go to Kotor again to climb for the views. Weighed up the stress of leaving the bikes unattended and riding that lovely stretch of road again, especially if they did rubbish collection two days in a row.
Thought about catching the bus as yes, the big normal size bus also uses this skinny road but didn't know the timetable and we didn't want to go too late in the day as another scorcher was forecast. And by too late in the day, I mean anything after 9am. And then the thought of the crowds, we just thought no, not again, packed up and hit the road at 6.15am.
The ride around the rest of the bay was nice, with only a few cars on the road. Still only wearing t-shirts this early in the morning, but today was a little cooler.
Came upon Tivat airport on our right and the old main road ran parallel, but was blocked off to traffic, but not to us. Consequently, we had it all to ourselves for a few kilometres.
While we were riding this stretch we watched and saw a plane coming in to land. Initially, it was heading straight at us, and we briefly thought, 'shit! Hope this deserted road isn't the new runway!'
After negotiating a roundabout, we pulled into a gas station for a coffee. The girl in there put our coffee in take away cups, but was very apologetic when we pointed it out.
Sat in the cafe and facetimed Brody and Aimee. Had a good old chat and got all the news with them. They are doing well and its always nice to catch up.
When we left the gas station, we picked up breakfast from a Voli supermarket. Best we've seen in Montenegro and wished it was dinner time so we could take advantage of all the delicious cooked food they had available.
Back on the road to some major road works and a small accident. Looked like one guy had bumped into the guy in front of him. The two guys involved just stood by their cars, blocking the road. The cars looked completely drivable with no visible damage from our side and this had caused a massive traffic jam, 5 km long. We were very thankful we were on the other side of the road.
We ploughed along, only needing to pull over for busses or trucks so they could get past us safely.
Came to an outcrop in the landscape and began our first climb of the day. The traffic now was beginning to increase, but there was no alternative road, so we were on our guard.
Came upon our first tunnel in Montenegro so put our lights on and entered. Suddenly there was a footpath beside us but with a waist high guard rail, it was impossible for us to get on it. So we were stuck on the road through the tunnel.
It was only about 150 metres long and we were nearly through when a truck comes up behind blasting his horn, because we were slowing him down.
What a tosser. He must have blasted his horn for fifteen seconds. Anyone who has ridden a bike through a tunnel with just general traffic noise, knows how scary it is with every noise amplified by about ten times. So to have that truck horn blare at us was enough to give us both a heart attack.
That just does it for me and so I ride in the middle of our lane, making sure he can't get past without going over the top of me. This is the mentality we deal with everyday here. No patience whatsoever and endangering life by blasting that horn, whilst sitting on our tails. What do they think that does to us? We have nowhere to go. It's sickening. Especially as yes, he gets past us, but then gets stuck at the lights in Budva, 1 km down the road.
Rode into the tourist resort of Budva with huge relief to be off the main road. This place is having huge work done on buildings and hotels/apartments.
Found a shady park for our breakfast and then cruised along the promenade, looking for a nice spot to swim.
Found a suitable spot to dive in and cool off, do some stretches and dive in to cool off again. Then we resumed our slow cruise along the coast, and very nice it was too.
Slowly pedalled along the promenade to Kamenovo beach, where we decided it was time for another cool off. Parked our bikes and changed on the footpath, and into the water.
As we were swimming we saw two young females, approach our spot and lay themselves down in front of our bikes. What a strange thing to do we thought.
Showered off in ice cold water and back to the bikes, where we changed in cramped confines, with these females.
It was such a weird thing to do, but we got our stuff together and carried on.
Ju here. Pete's animal magnetism showed it's strength again today. We were cycling along the promenade at Kamenovo Beach looking for a good place to swim with a shady place to sit afterwards.
Found a great shady spot to park the bikes where we could keep an eye on them while we swam. Why do we need a shady spot for the bikes you may ask. Three reasons. To keep our food in Pete's panniers out of the sun as much as we can. To keep the drink bottles out of the sun, because when they don't have the breeze while we're riding, they get that hot, you can barely hold them. And three, to look after the bike seats as they get very hot in direct sunlight.
Into our togs and off for a swim, keeping an eye on the bikes. We hadn't even got in the water, when two young women spread their towels out in the shade in front of our bikes. They looked like they were settling in for the long haul. So when we got out, we reclaimed our gear from the top of the bikes and did the whole mobile changing room thing right by these women, which I thought might put them off a bit and they might take the hint and move. But subtle cues are lost on this lot. Or perhaps we've been married for too long and I take Pete's overwhelming masculinity for granted?
They stayed steadfastly on their towels, but maybe the sight of Pete changing his shorts under a skimpy towel was what they had been waiting for. They did have their phones out...
We continued moving round them, packing up the bikes to find somewhere a little more comfortable to eat our nectarines and nuts. Back to Pete.
Seriously, could you not get any closer? I sneakily took this snap so you could see just how weirdly uncomfortable it was. I took this standing by my bike with the other girl right next to me and couldn't get out until Pete moved his bike. Very, very weird!
Found ourselves running out of track and in a private property. Rode up a dirt track which brought us out next to a run down apartment, but still inhabited, then around that to a car park on an abandoned property and out onto the main road.
Began our second climb heading for Sveti Stefan. We weren't on the main road long though and then had a lovely shady and deserted road for about 3km to Sveti Stefan, a major tourist attraction. We thought maybe we were on a private road as there were just no cars.
Anyway, next thing there was the island, well isthmus. A bunch of cars were lined up to pay the 4 euro parking fee, while we just cruised through. Downhill, though so we knew it would be Sweaty Pete and Sweaty Ju on the way back out.
Forty years on it was still as I remembered, with renovations to keep it looking good.
Crazy that this building has just been abandoned.
We ate our nectarines and nuts , (I had tomato and a bun as well), in the shade of a disused building and then got changed and went for a swim, with photos on the way especially for the 1985 crew.
Once again, beautiful crystal clear water, but strangely enough when we came out to shower, at one of the many shower pads, they've removed the taps and nozzles. What's that about?
Our final climb for the day came on the stint over to Petrovac and the camp at Buljarica.
Very hot now and we were just looking forward to finishing.
Cycled down into Petrovac to get money from a Bankomat, which are everywhere.
Not a system we would use again as you're losing so much on each transaction. But, being old school, we took our chance and have paid the price.
And when you go down into a village around here, you are definitely going up to get to the next destination.
Slowly, but surely up to the main road and then not too far away, down into Buljarica.
Had about three freecamping options here, but after passing two, noticed that those looked to be your Romanian Gypsies.
There are a lot up and down this coast. They mostly keep to themselves, but a lot of people selling goods, up in your face and they all have a story to tell.
In Kotor, it was a grandmother( pulls at the heartstrings straightaway) who had to do this as her husband needed an operation and she has twenty six thousand grandchildren, blah ,blah blah.
I seriously wonder about these people. There was a cruise ship in Kotor, people with money everywhere.
Yet she hits up two cycle tourers, covered in dust and sweat, eating nectarines for lunch, sitting onsitting on a block wall.
Sorry lady....wrong demographic... Anyway, I digress
Found camp, dreading the price, but only charged Euro 20 and because the guy's name was Peter, gave it to us for Euro 18.
He also put us under a shade to protect from the sun. We think we might stay here a few days. Tomorrow is good, but Saturday is rain all day and thunderstorms, and that shelter will certainly come in extra handy then!
We'll see.
After some big days this past week, we need a breather, but are hoping to get a break in Albania maybe for a week over Julia's birthday, if we can find something.
Lots of young cats here.
Shot out for a meal up the road, it was nice, but packed.
We sat and listened to a screaming baby at a table in the far corner wondering why they weren't being more proactive.
Actually...that's not correct. I actually wondered why they didn't just get up and leave all the other diners in peace. Give em a doggie bag...although around these parts, it's a kitties bag.
Back to the tent and in bed by 9pm.
Days closing in now.
Dark by 8pm.
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