27 August 2025 (sunny and hot) 50km

For forty euros...that was a terrible sleep. You would think in the places we've slept on our trips, that the noise couldn't be any worse.

Last night we had the main road above us and a minor road below, nothing out the ordinary. Traffic was mental all night. I think they were doing loops.

At 10am, we had a couple from Lithuania pull up in their car intending to sleep in it. I warned him that we were off at 5am, so be prepared to be woken. 

I know what you're thinking.

Pete's such a considerate guy, forewarning this delightful young and in love pair, that when taking the tent down, it could be a bit noisy.

Those that thought that ....do not know me at all.

It was all a selfish act of not wanting anyone else next to us talking until God knows what time and keeping ME awake.

We don't even need to mention Julia, when it comes to sleeping. 

But even my warning didn't put these guys off. Former Russian you see. Used to hardship and deprivation. 

Anyway, just settling in, listening to the final dulcet Russian tone, when the owner turns up. Seems they can't sleep in the car...not allowed.

So she gives them the tent behind us, which is already up and must have been for this very same situation. Then comes the kicker.

That'll be 105 euro thanks very much. No wonder they didn't make a sound after she left, probably thought she might charge for that as well. 

4.55am and over into the shower, which was lovely especially when I hadn't had one last night.

Feeling "wefweshed" (Madelaine Kahn) it was back to break camp.

On the minor road riding the coast. It was great not to have some impatient sod trying to run you off the road.

Time to enjoy the smell of the sea and the sunrise. 




Had a peaceful ride, until we hit the main road to Kotor around the bay. By this time, we'd been riding about half an hour, so it was nearly 6.30am.

The scenery was magnificent, probably not captured that well on photos with the light, but you can see why people come here. 


Then the traffic and the idiots came out and the vibe changed. Cars and trucks coming far too close, forcing you offline and into the side. 





Cruised off the main road to instant relief, into the village of Perast, nestled on the waters edge.



Closed off to anything but residents vehicles and with a barrier allowing deliveries, Perast was a stunning example of how to do the tourism gig properly. What a delightful little town.












Got to watch this beauty sail past while we pedalled slowly through Perast.





Back on dangerous road for a while, before pulling over for a much needed swim, followed by yoga/stretch/strength and another swim. 


The perfect breakfast spot!




Now time for a swim in that beautiful, clear water!




This was much needed before hitting the "Death Road" into Kotor.







On the outskirts we had sourced a bike shop, to pick up a new tube and pump up tyres with their hand pump.

Only a km down the road we found a shady park where we blogged, read, slept, (guess who) and ate lunch followed by an ice cream. 


Was trying to sleep but got distracted by this unusual view of an unusually coloured pigeon.

The old town beckoned, but the heat was saying "Noooooo."

We didn't follow Briana's example and climb the hill behind the town as the heat was overpowering, so we had to settle for ground shots.
















Kotor was incredibly crowded, traffic blaring their horns and everybody over the heat.

But it was well worth a visit and you can see why the tourists flock here. The whole crowded feeling wasn't helped by a cruise ship load of people being in town for the day.

Leaving the old town area and trying to get to where the road divided, was absolute chaos. We are both over the tourist spots.

In our early days, if you saw something special, you might tell a few friends. Nowadays, something special is flashed around the world and everyone knows about it instantly.

Just past the Old Town we got on the Coastal road, which, for a change, wasn't the road everyone was taking. They were going over the hill as it was 9km shorter. You would think that would make it less stressful....but no.

Within minutes, I was back to screaming at cars, we were both being forced to pull over into the gravel and Julia nearly lost her head to a rubbish truck driver's wing mirror.

She will make light of it and the other near misses, but there comes a point when enjoyment is put on hold while anxiety steps in. (Ju here, yes, you could say I'd almost been collected by the rubbish truck!)














We stopped at another tempting spot for yet another swim before cruising around another bay, where we came to our camp.

Right on the water, views to die for, more than adequate facilities for Euro= 20.

Half the price of last night.

All I'm hoping for now is a good night's sleep as concentration needs to be full on for tomorrow's ride. 

Swim, shave, shower, wash clothes and over to the bar for drinks. Because the power was out we were on limited menu options but we were perfectly happy with Caesar salad and grilled chicken for 8 euro each. Much happier campers tonight!

Power was out for internet, but I was able to write about the day's events and Ju did some planning with Mapy which doesn't need to be online.

We adjourned to the tent about 8pm and settled in for the night not long after as it's dark by 8pm nowadays.


Comments

  1. Loving the pics looks like my kinda place less the tourists.
    Not loving the dangerous riding you two find another path or mode of transport on those roads please it’s not worth injury or worse !!

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  2. Just like Keren I thought the pics were delightful and you can understand why artist go and live in those places and never leave. The weather seems to be a little kinder to you and if not you have plenty of cool water to swim in and making the most of it too well done. A few nasty days coming up here so housework is on the cards. Great blog I look forward to every day, thank you for working so hard on it for all of us.

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  3. Looks beautiful and the price of your campsite sounds a lot better, those main roads sound horrendous and the drivers don't give a toss about you guys! Hope you can get off the main roads tomorrow.


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