4 June 2025 (rainy, cool morning, sun and clouds in afternoon ) 55km

After waking so early, the morning seemed to drag. It was overcast and grey with showers, some heavier than others. Not really the day to be leaving camp to go to a campsite, especially since we needed to pick up a groundsheet, camping gas, sim card, food and other bits and pieces.

Thought about staying another night, but not only is the weather roughly the same tomorrow and the day after, but this is an airport hotel in the middle of nowhere, not the France we want to see. 

So, at 11.30am with bikes loaded, we pushed them down into the lobby and Julia dropped the key into reception.

Outside was definitely cooler, but for the moment we weren't bothered by rain. The plan today was to reach Versailles, where Julia had researched a decent campsite, albeit expensive, and then take in the most famous of the French "big houses".

Hadn't been going long and the showers began and it was the kind where you don't really notice that you're getting soaked, until you are. 

Trying to get into Paris from where we were, without hitting main roads or motorways was easier said than done, but thanks to Julia's pre- planning we found ourselves leaving Roissy and taking some quieter stretches of country roads, with long paths running alongside.

Like any major city, the outskirts spread far and wide, so it wasn't long before we began to notice the change and the increase in buildings and traffic volumes.

Before we left the hotel, I'd eaten last night's noodles and Julia had munched on an apple and nectarine.

Grabbed two bananas from a fruit shop on the main road and turned off down a leafy lane to enjoy some respite from the noise of the traffic.

It was lovely and a relief from concentration.

We had entered a park of some description. Looked like it could have been the grounds of some vast estate that had now been returned to nature. No plantings of any sort, just wilderness and the vestiges of an old railway line. The paths were mostly good quality and we could see our destination ahead.

At this point, our little soiree into the wilderness soured somewhat.

At the exit point, there was a locked gate, with a fence too high to pass over, so we detoured to two others, with the same outcome.

We now found ourselves in a huge area of nature park, but felt like prisoners with no option now but to make our way back to where we'd entered this godforsaken path and back onto the main road. Still, good to know we've still got it.

In St Denis, we went searching for a Decathlon store. This is the French version of Rebel Sports. We've shopped here before and found them to be excellent in variety of goods and service.

The shop was right across the road from the 81,000 seater Stadefrance and not far from the stunning new Aquatic Center that had been built for the Olympics last year. StadeFrance is the largest stadium in France and an impressive sight. It was built for the 1998 World Cup where France beat Brazil 3-0 in the final. Consequently the infrastructure around it was impressive with wide causeways to cycle as we searched for and found our first free public toilet of the trip.

It was safe to say that there were areas of our ride today that were, like most sprawling big city suburbs, not the most well kept and at times, a little unsavoury.

As we neared the city centre, the concentration levels on the bike were now extreme as we powered along the roads leading to Notre Dame.

Cyclists and electric scooters are everywhere and if New Plymouth Council wanted to see how to put in effective cycleways, look no further. 

The cycling was now fast, intense, exhilarating and in truth, a little scary. Parisians use these on road cycleways, with one thing in mind...to get where they are going and it was interesting to note, how we fell into the same patterns, the closer we got to the heart. 

It's not just the speed but the split decision making, weaving in and around vehicles, making sure pedestrians don't step out in front of you and flying across intersections like all other traffic shouldn't be on the road.

By the time we reached Notre Dame, we were mentally exhausted.

Today's ride wasn't a chance to take in the sights of the most romantic city in the world (we'd previously done that), but to head to Versailles. 

 You have to admire the perseverance of the Parisian graffiti artists.

The ride out was similar in style to our inward journey, but by now, we were used to it. The rain which had soaked us in the morning, had long since gone and although threatening dark clouds hovered above as we began climbing for the first time today, nothing came of it.

By now it was getting on and we hadn't eaten since breakfast, so we were both feeling a little empty.

Julia had begun to feel sore in the right knee, an injury she sustained whilst hiking in the South Island earlier last year. We hoped by easing into the mileage, she may not have trouble. At this stage we were around the 50km mark.

Pulled into a petrol station for a drink and a check on the time. It was 6.36pm. Was intending to call the campground to see if they had a spot for us, but realised one of the things we needed was a Sim card.

However, a lovely lady who worked there, called on her phone and was told the office closed at 7.00pm, but they had a spot for us and would wait. 

Heading for Huttopia Camping and it was at this time Mapy (our downloaded maps offline) decided to take us every which way, but directly to the camp. Eventually we rode up yet another hill to the camp (always up a bloody hill to finish the day).

The young girl on reception was ready for the off and not well pleased to have two weary bikepackers to deal with. She appeared to be oblivious of the phone call from the lady at the petrol station. Then two camper vans also came looking for a spot. To her credit she did find us a pitch in the trees in a quiet place and grudgingly let the camper vans in too. 

We wandered downstairs to the camp cafe and bar after setting up.

By now it was 9pm. The guy told us we could buy alcohol, but they weren't serving food.

Was informed the supermarket was open til 10pm, so walked briskly down the hill and bought supplies.

With the light from our head torch, we sat in the darkness of our little home eating, baguette, cheese, tomato, salami and salmon, with yoghurt and banana to finish. 

Didn't get to bed until 10.45p

m after reflecting on a very hectic day indeed.