23 June 2025 (sunny and extremely hot) 64km

Last night we retired at 10pm. By 10.15pm we were caught up in the worst thunderstorm we have ever been in. The thunder was loud, but the fork lightning was simply, plain scary.  Add to that terrible wind gusts and Julia and I are laying in the tent, watching it fold in on itself and waiting for one of the trees we had pitched under to be hit.  In normal circumstances, thunder and lightning doesn't worry either Julia or myself, but this was super intense and probably lasted forty five minutes.

We've had severe storm warnings the last two nights which have amounted to nothing but distant rumbling. We couldn't believe the sudden change as about an hour before bed we were debating leaving the flysheet off due to the oppressive heat.  Tonight as we sat drinking wine and sipping on a Leffe, with Rachael from last night's camp, its 5.30pm and the rain has already begun, with the odd clap of thunder.  Hopefully nothing like last night will eventuate as we honestly thought it might be curtains or at the very least, have the tent cave in on us.  We have a new found respect for our Big Agnes tent who was tested severely and came through with flying colours and will now be fondly referred to as Nessie.

This morning, you would not have known anything had occurred, at least not yet. We broke camp before 7am and onto the cycle path.  Rachael was cycling with us today on her way south and spending the night at another camp with a pool. However, she was a little behind us leaving, so we said we'd see her on the trail. And it was whilst cycling the trail that we came upon the damage. 

The first tree, we had to turn around as it was massive and no getting around. Took another trail before rejoining the via Rhona later.

On two other occasions we encountered big trees, but we could get around or over them. The cycle track was covered in debris and it was whilst negotiating one fallen tree that I punctured my front tyre, with a razor sharp thorn. 

Out in the middle of nowhere under the blazing sun, we started changing the tyre and once the wheel was off and tyre out, we found the thorn on the inner side. Trying to get it out was an issue.  Then along the track comes Rachael. As she had better eyes than Julia and I, (even though we were wearing glasses), and better tweezers, she picked out the thorn while I squeezed the tyre together.

Yes she may carry a lot, but she's ready for any situation. Once she can find the essential piece of equipment she's looking for!  That is the essence of cycle touring though. Figuring out was is and is not essential and only packing that. New tube in, pumped up and off. 

One thing this did highlight though is maybe it would be prudent to carry at least one spare tyre as for a good 15 minutes there, we thought we would not get that thorn out. We've never carried a spare tyre before and never needed one.  But perhaps we've just been lucky.  The cycling along the Rhone is my least favourite part of the tour so far. The Rhone should be visible as you ride, but you only get glimpses through the overgrown vegetation.  And when you do see it, the water is disgusting, ruined by commercial ventures going up and down the river. 

We got seriously lost today going to find an Intermarche.  Ended up on the busiest main road, scary at times especially on the roundabouts, with trucks speeding everywhere.  The bonus to all this though is we came across a Decathlon store so bought a new camping gas and a new tyre, to be stored at the bottom of my pannier and hopefully never needed.  We found an alternative route back onto the cycle trail, where we enjoyed a lovely breakfast at a shaded picnic bench.

On the way again and we cycled through a conservation area, but from what I gathered, the only thing being conserved was the art of prostitution.  Cycled past one van as the female was pulling up her knickers on the front seat. It's not unusual to see this in certain parts of Europe, and everyone knows what's happening, even the Police.

The afternoon sun was so hot and everyone was feeling it. It was really just a case of keeping those legs spinning.

Tournon sur Rhone finally showed itself and not a minute too soon. It was after 3pm and after a visit to the Intermarche for supplies, we found the camp on the riverbank. The thunder had begun, but the rain was holding off. Got the tent up then into the pool for a cool off.  The water wasn't cold enough though so then it was into the cold showers, then washed our used gear for the day and hung it up.

Decided that it was drinky time, so we all went over to the bar where we enjoyed some wine and beer listening to the thunder roll in the background. A bit of rain fell, but we were under shelter and enjoyed the breeze that came with it.  Rachael will leave us tomorrow and we'll be back to travelling side by side.  It is currently 7pm and 29 degrees.

Tomorrow we have 500 metres of climbing over 70 kms. 

Time for some dinner, although after two Leffes, not sure how that will turn out.

While Julia worked on a new map system, I walked into town and took some shots, then back to the camp for a delicious dinner, before another cold shower and bed.