22 June 2025 (sunny and extremely hot, late thunderstorm) 68km

Last night there was a music festival in St. Martin en Haut. "That's not going to stop me sleeping," said Julia.  Israel and Iran and nuclear warfare won't wake Julia, but there are two of us on this trip. Festival ran until midnight. Sounded like a whole lotta drums and not much else. But Julia slept. 

Then at 11.38pm we had the bunch of German mountain bikers, who thought it was funny shining their high powered bike lights right at our tent. Julia slept on.  Then we had the screaming, very human sounding. I was reminded of Quaso Modo and "the bells, the bells", but it was nothing intelligible. Just regular screaming into the night. Was it some intellectually challenged individual afraid of the dark? Because we didn't hear it during the day.

Ju here: Last night there was a strange repetitive screaming going on that I was vaguely aware of. A quick peek revealed it wasn't Pete having nightmares about hills and heat, so back to sleep.  In the morning we compared notes. Pete thought it was a mentally challenged human, and it did sound like that. 

But as we cycled through a village a few days ago, we heard a very strong and unusual noise coming from the village pond. I pulled over for a closer look expecting to see maybe a massive frog making this huge noise. But in amongst the murky green water I saw the small head of a frog emitting this awful screaming noise. So I'm pretty sure it was just a frog last night. Whether it was mentally challenged, who can be sure. Back to Pete.

Woke at 4.52am, packed up a crisp, dry tent and flysheet (nothing better) and hit the road.  No jersey required when we rolled out the gates at 6.43am and lovely riding on nice empty roads down, down, down into the town of Mornant (very nice entranceway to the town). 11kms had taken us thirty minutes. 

The only downside was the Intermarche didn’t open for another 1 3/4 hours. No way we were sitting still, so we set off for Givors, another 12 kms away.

By the time we fluffed around with another supermarket, (which wasn't open at all today), and reached the Intermarche in Givors, it was 8.40am. It opened at 9am. So we logged into their WiFi sitting in the shade across the road and then Julia grabbed the shopping.  Got to get food for the whole day, as they all shut at lunchtime on Sunday. That's so they can give God his Sunday roast. Whereas I give him a roast most days. 

We had breakfast at Givors beside the Rhone. This place could have been lovely if it wasn't for the overflowing rubbish bin and litter everywhere.

A pleasant reprieve from the heat riding through this nature reserve. We spotted our first snake today as it writhed out of our way off the cycle path.  Only about half a metre long.

Here we are at 1.15pm, sitting on our ground sheet on a thankfully, shaded spot after being turned away from the first campground we came to.  Even though they advertise with a tent sign, they only have cabins, which for two very hot cyclists, is not what you want to hear.  Just along the way was another camp but the gates were closed for the usual lunchtime ritual and not open til 3pm.

That could be expensive as they have a pool. We think around $65. Getting to tourist spots now. Noticed the river cruise boats about 10km back. 

Thankfully there is a light breeze coming off the river every now and then, so we should be able to survive til 3pm. Without wifi I can't tell you the temperature, but it's well over 30 degrees. 

It is now 2.27pm and shortly we will cycle back to the closed campground in the hope that they do, in fact open at 3pm. Some do not. Some say they will open at 3pm but don't open til 5pm. We need shade and cold water. Anyone doing a tour across the Sahara, rule us out. 

Today we have seen more cycle tourers than the whole tour so far, put together. That is because we are now on the via Rhona, a nice flat ride along the Rhone river.

We are sitting alongside the Rhone as I write and it's not a river to be swimming in. Still used a lot commercially and not the cleanest, especially at the edges where all the flotsam and jetsam accumulate.  Bloody hell it's hot. Cooler laying down than sitting up. 

Jumping forward.

It's now 5.30pm and 40 degrees. That's right.....40 bloody degrees. No wonder we don't want to move. We are now in the campground previously mentioned.  It cost $52 but has a pool, which we used shortly after arriving. Just before the camp gates, we spied a woman sitting in the shade, also waiting for opening time.  Turns out she's a Kiwi girl from Bay of plenty.  Rachael is her name.

Julia and I set up our inner tent and straight to the pool. Was half filled with Italians and good family vibe.  Once out, cold shower and walked the 200 metres back to the tent. Grabbed some washing and did that and we were roasting once again.  At least we are guaranteed that the washing will be dry tonight. Over to the bar. Pellegrino water for Julia and a taster of the local beer for me. But only a medium glass.

Julia shot off for a cold shower and then I had another beer and Julia a wine and Rachael joined us. Wow she had some stories to tell and we all had a lot to talk about.  She uses Komoot for her navigation and gave Ju an impromptu lesson on how to use it. Two glasses of wine down though I'm not sure how much registered.  Anyway, it was a fun night and as the night drew in, we all started our evening bedtime rituals. The thunderclouds gathered and we heard the distant rumbling as we prepared for bed.