21 June 2025 (sunny and extremely hot) 42km

Woke at 4.52am this morning. Pointless hanging around. We have to rattle off as many kms in the morning as we can before the extreme heat of the afternoon. 

An hour later we were pedalling out of camp along a quiet farm connection road. Although it felt a bit cool, we both knew the sun would soon become overpowering.

We also knew today would be testing. There was over a thousand metres of climbing in store and there was no getting round it. 

About 6km in and we had our first tester. Straight up. Our overworked thighs let us know they have done quite enough work in the last few days and didn't appreciate this early morning wake up call. 

The countryside was gorgeous, so there were distractions. Following Julia's route on Mapy, we are up on a ridge enjoying the views. Suddenly, we are turning down a country road into the valley. So it continues, up, down, up, down like a long drawn out church service. Have they not heard of tunnels? Oh well, we knew there would be plenty of climbing. But no matter how much you do, it always seems to be tough.

We've just sweltered our way up another steep hill when Julia checks the directions Mapy has given her. It points us down another little country lane and so we descend again, already dreading the uphill that is sure to be waiting at the end. But we can't even enjoy the downhill, because suddenly it deteriorates to a stony track. 

We've come too far downhill to even contemplate turning back, so duck under one fence, haul open a reluctant farm gate (and close it again) and worry that we will meet an impassable obstacle and have to sweat our way all the way back up from where we came.

Next was the option of a narrow bridge, with the ubiquitous stinging nettles half covering it, or through a muddy puddle...and I'd just cleaned the bikes yesterday. 

Ju here: I opted for the mud as there was long grass on the far side and I figured that would get the mud off. Pete went for the bridge and stinging nettles as it was him who had cleaned both bikes last night, (I did wonder why he bothered). As he manhandled his heavy bike over this skinny bridge, the stinging nettles brushing his bare arms and legs. I wondered if now was the time to bring up those immortal words he uttered in our first week. Something like "enjoy everything your journey has to offer....." 

We pushed our bikes up this unruly, steep path, (which I'm pretty sure is part of some Camino trail), wondering why Mapy had it down as a path suitable for cycle touring. The only good thing I could think of was if I was a Camino walker, I would appreciate this path much more than trudging up a road.

When we reached the road again, we decided we'd had it with all these country lanes. It was exhausting stopping all the time to check every intersection and the hills on these side roads were intense. 

So we joined the main road which wasn't too busy and made quick time into Souzy where we'd earmarked an Intermarche for our breakfast supplies. Only problem was, we had to deviate off our route. Only for about 500 metres, but it was all down a steep hill. With every metre we descended and knowing we'd just have to turn around and trudge back up this bloody hill, I began thinking, "I'm really not that hungry."

But you can't get Pete that close to food and just jerk it away from him or you'd have a severe meltdown on your hands.

First thing I did when we got to the carpark was check Mapy to see if we could avoid going back up that awful hill....and thankfully there was!

So breakfast supplies bought and a short ride to find a picnic bench in the shade and we tucked into a delicious breakfast. We have started adding a bottled iced latte to our breakfast and it's very tasty, and the only coffee we are drinking as it's just too hot for a hot drink.

The only down side to having a nice relaxed, big breakfast, is when you hop on your bikes again, your muscles feel absolutely dead. No strength, no power, just pain and resistance. So when we were faced with a 5km 9% uphill to Duerne, I had to take regular mini breaks to restore some life to my legs. Even though it was only mid morning, we were sweating more than we have on the trip so far. 

There were plenty of proper cyclists out riding this road and some gave us encouragement. The views were also getting more expansive when we could see them through the sweat.

Saw this sign at the top. No wonder we were knackered!

The water fountain was the most popular place in town as all the cyclists filled their bottles and dowsed their heads.

Finally we reached the top and found ourselves at the first village drinking water that was potable (drinkable). We were pleasantly surprised to see all these pro cyclists also feeling the conditions and making use of the water spout. There were heaps of them on this road and we think there was some sort of event on. We also suspect we may have been in the company of some truly accomplished riders. 

The rest of our ride to St Martin en Haut was mostly downhill, with one last uphill into the village. There was some rainbow protest going on with lots of signs and shouting and about 300 people marching through the centre of town. 

A quick cool visit into the church at Saint Martin en Haut.

We grabbed an ice-cream and a coke and sat in the shade before purchasing our supplies for lunch and dinner and making our way to camp a mere km out of town. 

But as we turned off the roundabout for the camp, we saw we were heading towards another hill.

The road split in two. 

Pete here:

So you can guess what happened.

Both roads were severely steep, but after checking the map, we got the steeper of the two. It was a killer to finish a morning of very tough riding.

 When we arrived at the camp, usual story, it was after 12.30pm, so every Frenchman takes time off in the afternoon and restarts at a later time.

There was another guy we had seen cycling in St. Martin en Haut, laying under the trees. We thought he would do the same as us and watch the sun move around, then pitch.

Oh no, he gives it until two minutes before the reception is back on and buggers off. He'd been using his phone and speaker and charging up. Also used the facilities. I thought you cheeky bastard. I bet he does it every day.

Anyway, we've taken the gear off our bikes and are playing the waiting game with the sun.

As we waited, we took cold showers and washed clothes.

Down to reception to pay. 

How nice is it when you check in and the people are lovely, even if they don't speak your language.

We'd been in the sun the entire morning, slogging up mountain sides and the person on reception is not nice...at all.

The camp was not busy, but there was a party of eight school kids arrive as I was just asking about a pitch, having just paid. 

I asked if it was possible to stay close to the toilets, roughly where we had unloaded. 

" Non" came the reply

And then he told one of the adults to inform me that we were to move into the forest.

When I suggested something else, he just shut me down.

Our time in France has been made extra special by people who have gone out of their way to assist us if required, even though they speak no, or very little English. 

I won't let this rude, ignorant man ruin my perception of French people.

Anyway, we did move into the forest, which was infested with ants, so we made the decision to get some flat grass down by the roadway.

Julia wandered over to the reception area, because it's the only place to get wifi, and got talking to the female half of the owners. She was lovely and spoke great English.

So we had a drink while working on the blog and then we headed back to the tent for dinner. 

New Zealand campgrounds could certainly show the French a few things. 

Kitchens are rare over here. Toilet paper is most often not provided. Pitches are poor in comparison. Showers quite often cost extra, as does wifi.

Our planned route tomorrow is approx 50kms, mainly flat, so a reprieve from climbing.

It's 7.19pm and 29 degrees.