17 June 2025 (sunny and hot) 71km
Both awake at 5.30am and over to the toilet block to splash cold water on our faces. Bikes loaded and off.
I think if we knew what was coming today, we would have turned around. It was hill day today and the bodies really knew about it.
Water quality unknown, but makes a nice reflection as the early morning mist dissipates.
The last couple of days we've had a lead in to this, but did it hit us hard. Still, these are not even pre school compared with what's in store.
First stop was Cerilly about 10kms in after climbing steadily all morning. We arrived before the supermarket opened at 8am and got enough food for breakfast and lunch. The guy who served us was a right miserable sod. Great way to start your day, make everyone miserable.
After wearing gloves, windbreaker and jersey to start the day, they were soon removed as the hills continued. We would get barely any breathing space at the top as we plunged down into the next valley, only to have to climb straight up again in the blazing heat.
More hills to Bourbon l'archambault, where we found a shaded spot in a park to at last have breakfast at about 10am. We had done 36km already and were feeling pretty worn out.
We dried the groundsheet and flysheet as we ate and when we were packing up to leave, we were approached by a French lady who told us that two of her friends cycled from Lyon to Indonesia in 2012.
Impressive!!
Yet more hills...we were thoroughly over them by now.
Through Autry Issard and cycled into the lovely hamlet of Souvigny. Here was a beautiful twelfth century church set in a stunning central plaza. Over the road was another very old church, set amongst some lovely old homes. The sun by now was scorching hot.
By now we were sick of hills. What made it worse was that the roads were so long and straight that you could see them coming for miles.
Arrived in Besson at 2.30pm to find only one small shop selling limited goods, but it was shut til 3.30pm. As we didn't have much food for the night, we opted to sit in the shade until this shop opened.
The church clock informed us when it was 3.30pm and we made our way to the shop. If I'd wanted a night on the town, this was the shop. A lot of small shops sell a huge variety of beers, wines and sometimes spirits, and this one was no exception. Unfortunately, not a huge amount were refrigerated.
We exited the shop with some lentils, beans and two nectarines....???
The final push of the day and it was just that. After resting for an hour it was hard to get the legs working again. It took a big effort. We were hot, sweaty and sick of hills. But there was more to come.
The last 9kms was a matter of just getting there and suddenly we were.
Camping Deneuve was a lovely site, with new owners, who had only been in for a month.
We gratefully paid our fee of Euro 15 and set up in a shaded spot, with a pleasant view as this camp is on the banks of the Allier river
Julia was pleased that the showers could be any temperature you wanted and of course, the colder, the better. Therefore we didn't explore the river swimming options, although this did look to be a possibility as it was flowing water, not just stagnant pond.
Into the bar for drinks and of course you get chatting to people. Both couples we chatted with were Dutch and really nice. Julia had a rosé wine whilst I had a Leffe. The drinks, both of them, were Euro 7. That's $14 for both and Julia's wine was a big serve.
As we sipped our drinks we got chatting to the two pairs of Dutchies at neighbouring tables and decided that lentils didn't cut it tonight. Tonight we would feast at the camp cafe.
Fish n chips for Julia, burger for me. Sounded great but was somewhat disappointing. Literally a burger pattie on a plate with chips. No sauce of any kind, no salad. That was $30. Julia's fish was the kind you grab out the freezer, with chips. Still better than lentils though and nice to have a reward after a tough day. The dessert was lovely!
Tomorrow we'll be having an easier day. Probably around the 40km mark.
Well at least the drinks were a reasonable price!
ReplyDeleteI do appreciate hearing about the tough conditions you're experiencing at times ... already looking forward to cycling along the coastal walkway to the gym in the brisk morning air. Might have to wait for the rain to clear and the sun to come up first
Well there looks to be some lovely old towns on the route you are taking going by your photos. Gorgeous. By the time you get to Switzerland ,Austria and top of Italy you should be well ‘ hill fit’ with this lead in. … or well over going up then down then up again ,and repeat!
ReplyDeleteDon’t know where France rates on the global happiness scale ,but when you come across some of the miserable ones you’ve encountered ,it makes you wonder. Matariki holiday weekend here starting tomorrow ,forecast looks like first day some rain then great for Sat,Sunday. So should be good. Puppy update ,first two girls scanned def pregnant ,so that’s great.
Coffee with D& D later this morning . Will be sure to talk smack about you ,which we like to do when you aren’t here😊. Have a good day tomorrow guys
Again lovely photos in some charming places, what a pity you cannot get some paths along the rivers to ease the climbing, Still you will get the chance to have a nice break at Margrit and Ernst, make the most of it.
DeleteLooks like another great day, give or take a few hills! Stunning photos. Hope your ears were burning after our coffee with Toff!! Hope tomorrow is an easier day.
ReplyDeletePete's ears were burning for sure, but only because he'd forgotten to sunscreen them!
Delete